How To Take Care Of Chickens – First Time Guide

I’ve been on a journey of self-sufficiency and growing some of my own food over the years, and chickens are the next natural step in that process. When I first got chickens, it was a little intimidating. There’s a lot more responsibility compared to growing food. Are chickens hard to take care of? What do I need to know?

I’ve been raising chickens for about two years now, from pullets and even raising days old baby chicks. Today, I want to share some tips on how to care for chickens and pass on the lessons I’ve learned along the way, so your experience can be much smoother and more enjoyable.

Are Chickens Easy to Take Care Of?

In my experience, chickens are some of the easier animals to take care of. They pretty much take care of themselves – you just need to give them food, water, and shelter, along with a few other small things. I find that they don’t get sick or run into too many problems. Honestly, I think something like a dog is much higher maintenance than chickens.

So, are chickens hard to take care of? Not really. The main thing you’ll spend money on is the initial setup for the coop and run, which can be expensive depending on how you approach it. Once that’s done, general care is minimal, and they’re pretty easy to look after.

Choosing the Right Coop

I needed somewhere to house my chickens. I’ve seen a lot of amazing DIY coop builds, but I was able to get a used store-bought coop instead. Something I soon realized was that I wanted to double my flock from three to six birds.

Note: This is known as chicken math—however many chickens you have, that number is going to increase so keep that in mind when choosing your coop size.

If I were starting over, I’d get a coop with room to expand. A good coop should include:

• Shelter & protection – Keeps chickens safe at night from predators and the elements.
• Nesting boxes – A spot for egg-laying that’s also easy for you to reach.
• Elevated Roosting bars – Chickens prefer to sleep at the highest point.
• Enough Space – Should comfortably fit all your chickens (At least 0.5 m² or 5.4 ft² per bird inside the coop, more if they’ll stay in during winter.
• Ventilation – Prevents moisture build-up and improves air quality for you and the chickens.

Tip: There are a lot of premade chicken coops that don’t actually make good coops, so be very picky if you are choosing to purchase one.

One issue with my original coop is that the roosting bars were too low, so the chickens often slept in the nesting boxes instead. This means:

• They sit in their own droppings all night.
• Higher risk of mites & disease.
• More poop on eggs, meaning more cleaning.

I was able to solve this by blocking the nesting boxes at dusk, so they learned to roost on the bars instead.

Best Chicken Bedding for Your Coop

You need some kind of bedding in your coop or under your roosting bar to absorb moisture and chicken waste. So what to use for chicken bedding? There are a few good options:

• Sand – It can be filtered with a porous scoop, so you don’t have to refill as often.
• Wood Shavings – A classic choice. It absorbs moisture well and is easy to work with. We ended up going with wood shavings since that’s what works best for our setup.
• Coffee Grounds – I’ve heard people use dried leftover coffee grounds or even store-bought recycled mixes, though I haven’t tried this myself yet.
• Shredded Paper – Very cheap if you have access to some. It’s soft and absorbent, but it can get messy and may need to be changed more frequently.
• Hemp Bedding – It’s meant to be really good against mites and other pests, I find its a bit expensive in my location.
• Straw or Hay – Both solid choices, just make sure they stay dry as they can get quite mouldy if wet.

Tip: Chicken manure is nitrogen-rich and makes excellent compost. It’s also great for filling the middle layer of raised beds.

Shallow Bedding Method

This is a light layer of bedding, either on the floor of the coop or on a poop deck (depending on your setup). A poop deck lets you collect the droppings right underneath the roosting bars, making it easier to clean.

Shallow bedding needs to be changed daily or at least once a week, depending on how many chickens you have and how dirty it gets.

Deep Bedding Method

The idea behind this is to use a thick layer, usually a few inches deep. Every so often, throw more bedding on top instead of cleaning it out. Keep doing this until you empty it out every 6 months to a year.

This can be a lower-maintenance option, and at the end of the year, you can use the deep bedding to add to your compost.

How to Clean a Chicken Coop

If you’re wondering how often to change chicken bedding, a good rule of thumb is to remove it at least once a week—or daily if you have a poop deck. With deep bedding, you can go as long as six months or more before a full change.

The number of chickens will affect how often you need to clean, so trust your eyes and nose. The goal is a clean, dry coop with no strong smells.

Checking for Pests in the Coop

Every so often, it’s a good idea to check your coop for pests like mites. They like to hide in nooks and crannies, under the roosting bars, and in the bedding. Personally, I find that keeping the bedding clean and providing a dust bath for the chickens goes a long way in preventing pests and odours in the coop.

You can use a powder or spray to kill any mites that might be hiding in the bedding or in the nesting boxes in your coop. Some options you can use are:

• Permethrin: A poultry-safe insecticide used to kill mites and lice on chickens, in the coop, and bedding. It has a withholding period, meaning you need wait a certain time before using eggs or meat from treated chickens.
• Essential Oils: Eucalyptus or tea tree oil can repel pests, though they’re less effective for heavy infestations.
• Poultry Dust: Insecticidal powder, designed to control pests on chickens.
• Diatomaceous Earth: A powder that kills insects, its contentious in the chicken community whether its safe to use or not, as the fine powder may be inhaled.

Tip: If you want to use diatomaceous earth, use a safer food grade option and wear a mask when applying.

Chicken Run Setup

What is a Chicken Run?

A chicken run is just a space for chickens to hang out during the day, get some sun, and forage if possible. Just like people, chickens don’t like being cooped up all the time.

It can be something as simple as a fenced area or as complex as a fully covered setup that provides extra protection from predators and the elements. Chickens can be surprisingly vulnerable to everyday critters so its a good idea to make your coop and run as predator proof as possible.

How Much Run Space Per a Chicken?

Generally, you want to provide about 1m² per chicken (about 11ft²) for plenty of space to roam but more space is always a better thing, both for the health of your chickens and the quality of the eggs.

Tip: If you are integrating new chickens to an existing flock, having more run space will make this a lot easier.

My First Chicken Run

My initial coop had a small run attached, but I later built a larger fenced area for the chickens to roam. If your chickens are particularly flighty, you may need to clip their flight feathers. However, I used a 1.5 metre (5 ft) fence made of t-posts and chicken wire, and the chickens never tried to fly over it.

They do tend to dig under things though, so make sure your fence has something to prevent that like an apron or being buried deep. The chicken run I use now is built over bricks so I don’t have this issue.

I like to use wood chips on the floor of my runs for a few reasons:

• Absorbs moisture
• Prevents muddy conditions in wet weather
• Breaks down into compost (changed once a year)

Note: In wet weather, a chicken run can get smelly as moisture promotes bacteria growth from all the poo. Wood Chips are a good way to reduce this.

Protection from Predators

Since I live in an urban environment, my main predator concerns are cats and birds of prey. My chickens are generally safe inside the coop at night, which has solid wire covering the gaps and is placed on concrete. However, when they’re outside during the day, they’re more vulnerable.

At first, I didn’t worry much about cats, as my friend who kept chickens assured me they wouldn’t be an issue. But I did have a very curious neighbourhood cat who constantly chased my chickens.

I wanted my chickens to have room to explore, so I opted for a 4x3m run. While the chicken wire fencing won’t stop a determined predator, it has been effective in protecting my chickens from the neighbourhood cats and predatory birds.

Protection from Weather

Chickens need protection from extreme weather, as both heat and cold can be fatal. The breeds available in your local area are usually adapted to the climate, but they still need the right setup to stay safe.

In my case, we get extremely hot summers, so I take a few extra steps to keep my flock comfortable and prevent heat stress, which can quickly become deadly:

• Provide hard shade, like a building, so they can avoid all sun.
• Provide softer shade, such as a shade cloth over the run in summer.
• Provide a dust bath or loose soil for cooling through dust bathing.

I’ve got a whole guide on how to keep chickens cool in hot weather if you want to know all the tricks and methods I use to keep my flock safe during hot weather.

Cold weather can also be dangerous, especially if chickens are exposed to freezing temperatures for too long. Important considerations include:

• Blocking prevailing winds to prevent drafts.
• Preventing water from freezing so they always have access to drinking water.
• Keeping the coop warm at night to help them maintain body heat.

Tip: As a general rule, chickens tolerate cold weather quite well, especially if they have shelter from wind and moisture. However, they struggle with extreme heat, which can be fatal without proper shade and cooling options.

How to Clean a Chicken Run

I treat a chicken run like deep bedding. I clean out the wood chips and any other build-up once a year, then compost it. If you have a solid floor in your run, it’s easier to clean, but if you have a dirt floor, just use a heavy rake to remove the contents.

You can also add fresh wood chips to replace what’s been cleaned out. Regular cleaning keeps your run fresh and reduces the build-up of harmful bacteria and pests.

Feeding Chickens

One of the most crucial aspects of keeping chickens is managing their feed, as different aged chickens have different needs and it will greatly affect the health of your chickens and their egg production.

What to Feed Chickens by Age

Chickens are omnivores, meaning they will eat almost anything. Their natural diet consists of leafy greens, grass, grains, seeds, and insects. Its generally recommended to only feed your chicks and pullets their specially made feeds to avoid health issues.

When it comes to feeding laying hens you can then get a bit more creative, a balanced diet is essential for producing high-quality eggs. The main nutrients to focus on are protein and calcium:

• Protein: Laying hens need 16-18% protein to support healthy eggs and strong feathers. I personally use 18% protein to ensure my chickens stay healthy and productive year-round.
• Calcium: This nutrient is crucial for strong eggshells. Crushed oyster shells or limestone provide a great source of calcium. It’s best to offer it separately, allowing your chickens to consume it as needed.

For a deeper look at the best chicken feed options for laying hens, check out our guide here.

Tip: You should still give laying hens their laying feed, but extra supplements like calcium and kitchen scraps are fine. Just don’t exceed 10% of their diet with scraps, as this can cause digestive problems.

When to Start Feeding Chickens Layer Feed

When your pullets hit around 18–20 weeks old and are getting close to laying eggs, you can switch them to layer feed. This type of feed is richer in calcium to support egg production. Just be sure to transition gradually from grower feed to avoid any digestive issues.

When to Start Feeding Chickens Egg Shells and Oyster Shells

You can start feeding chickens egg shells or oyster shells once they begin laying eggs. These are excellent sources of calcium, which is essential for strong eggshells. Place them in a separate container, and the chickens will eat them as needed, particularly if their layer feed doesn’t fully meet their calcium requirements.

Tip: Crush egg shells before giving them to your chickens. If not, they may crack their own eggs to eat them.

When Can You Start Feeding Chickens Scraps

Chickens can start eating kitchen scraps when they are adult laying hens, but keep it to a treat rather than a regular meal. Avoid anything that could be harmful, like mouldy food or things like onions or avocados.

How Much to Feed Chickens Per Day

Feeding chickens the right amount is important for their health and egg production. Adult hens typically eat around 120 grams (1/3 of a pound) of feed per day. This varies though depending on age, the season, and if they have access to forage or not.

Don’t worry too much about measurements or anything, just make sure the chickens have access to enough feed and they will self regulate.

Note: In my experience chickens seem to eat most during the morning when they get up and at dusk before they go to sleep.

Giving Your Chickens Water

Chickens will need a source of clean, fresh water. There are lots of watering systems both DIY and prebuilt. The most common systems are:

• Nipple systems: Chickens peck the nipples to release water.
• Tray or cup systems: Water is provided in a tray or cup for chickens to drink.

You can buy these systems very cheap online or at a local animal supply store. I find nipples probably the cleaner option but I like the way chickens naturally drink out of the cup systems.

Tip: Elevate your water system to stop the chickens from making it dirty or tipping it over.

It’s a good idea to get a large chicken waterer with a high capacity because chickens drink a lot of water each day, especially in hot weather. This will reduce the amount of times you need to refill.

Tip: In hot weather, water can heat up quickly. Chickens won’t drink hot water, which can lead to dehydration. Make sure to monitor your water system and keep it cool to prevent this.

Setting Up a Chicken Dust Bath

Chickens clean themselves by preening and bathing in dust or dirt. They will dig a hole and flick the dirt onto their body to suffocate mites and other parasites on them. This will also ironically help remove dirt from their feathers.

How Big Should a Chicken Dust Bath Be?

There is no specific size it has to be but I would say about 1m² (11ft²) for every 3 chickens. They do like to smush together for their baths, as any helpers flinging dust around helps them too.

How to Make a Chicken Dust Bath

Dust baths can be made with sand or dirt. Chickens tend to kick the sand everywhere, so it’s a good idea to keep it contained somehow and give it a bit of depth so they can really dig in.

Some people use boxes or even toy pools for this. Common ingredients you can use to make a dust bath are:

• Charcoal
• Sand
• Dirt
• Diatomaceous Earth
• Herbs like rosemary and lavender
• Ash

If you don’t want to go overboard, don’t worry too much. As long as there’s bare soil or sand in their run, they’ll figure it out and make their own dust bath.

My Dust Bath Setup

Because my run has brick floors, I decided to set up a proper dust bath. I made the container out of old pavers and some logs.

It’s mostly filled with garden sand, dirt and woodfire ash mixed in. I also add herbs like rosemary, which are said to help with bacteria and mites (plus, they smell nice).

Tip: I’ve found that my chickens prefer the sand to be a little moist and clumping, rather than too dusty.

How to Deal With Chicken Pests

The main pest to look out for are mites and worms.

Chicken Mites

Mites are small parasitic insects that feed on chicken blood. They hide in the coop’s nooks and crannies, coming out at night, especially in warm weather. Since mites reproduce quickly, infestations should be dealt with as soon as possible.

To treat mites on chickens:

• Dust your chickens with poultry-safe mite powder. Focus on under the wings and around the vent.
• Use a poultry-safe mite spray if needed, following the instructions carefully.

To prevent reinfestation:

• Check for signs of mites regularly. Chickens may avoid their coop or scratch excessively.
• Keep the coop clean and dry. Since mites thrive in hidden spaces, regular cleaning helps keep numbers low.

Chicken Worms

Chickens can pick up parasitic worms that attach to their throat from scratching and eating off the ground. A common symptom is head-shaking as they try to relieve throat irritation.

To treat worms:

• Use a poultry dewormer from your local feed store, following the dosage instructions.

How to Collect Chicken Eggs

Chickens usually lay their eggs in the same nesting box, which is typically around 30cm by 30cm (12 inches). While there are various types of nesting boxes available, most share a few important features:

• Soft bedding: Eggs may crack on hard surfaces, so soft materials like straw, hay or foam are preferred.
• Dark and cosy: Chickens feel safer and more comfortable laying in a quiet, enclosed space.
• Cleanliness: No one wants to collect dirty eggs, so regular cleaning is a good idea.

Our chickens started laying around four months old and will lay one egg per day for several years. In their first year, the eggs may be smaller, but they will gradually increase in size as the hens mature. Over time, egg production will taper off as they get older.

If your chickens stop laying eggs while they are still young (1–3 years old), there are a few things you can do to get them laying again.

Tip: Chickens tend to make a fair bit of noise, especially after laying an egg. This typically lasts for about 10-20 minutes before they quiet down on their own.

My Chicken Breeds

Our chickens are for primarily for egg production and for fun, we don’t intend to eat them. With that in mind we originally chose 3/4 Australorps and Leghorns due to their laying capacity and local availability.

We’ve since expanded our flock, adding a Belgian D’Uccle and two Lavender Araucanas and are eager to try out more breeds in the future. While they may not lay as many eggs, they do have interesting coloured eggs and feathers.

They all seem to handle the hot weather we have quite well and are relatively docile breeds suitable for families.

Conclusion

Raising chickens for eggs, meat, or their companionship is a fulfilling journey toward self-sufficiency. I didn’t expect to find them as much fun as I do.

It requires a bit of investment upfront, but they are truly the gift that keeps on giving. Pay attention to their diet and living conditions, and you’ll have healthy birds that provide delicious eggs. Above all else, remember that chicken math is real!